Fruit, Mototaxis, Inca Ruins, and More

Another week in Peru and continuing on into the Sacred Valley and the small town of Taray. The Sacred Valley is at about 9,000ft as opposed to the higher altitude of Cusco allowing for easier breathing, longer walks and a general increase in stamina all around. The weather, though early summer, is still more Spring like to us with frequent afternoon showers and temps ranging between 40´s - low 70´s. We´ve also become accustomed to more Peruvian fare. This tends toward rice, potatoes, meat (any kind, really), chicken and, to a lesser extent veggies. One thing that is quite a bit different but incredibly enjoyable is the ubiquitous JUGO, or juice. There are many tropical fruits in season year round and are readily (cheaply) available to all folks. The fruit drink is rarely diluted. If you go to the juice section of a local market you will be rewarded with 2 full glasses of the pureed fruit of your choice. You simply pick out the fruit combo you like, in Kai´s case - banana, mango, pineapple - watch the fruit cut up, pureed and presented to you, all for the equivalent of $1.15. It´s an incredible delectable treat!

Our second week of language school went really fast. We stayed on site this time in a dorm room with five beds and a beautiful garden area. We were joined by 7 other students, most of whom were from Holland. Their energy and willingness to fearlessly explore another country was refreshing and invigorating. We´ll miss them as they continue on their respective journeys and hope for a visit from them to the farm someday. We also loved our professoras who have officially helped Michael and I speak in past and future tense. A wonderful and most helpful accomplishment as we continue to navigate thru this country and language. You´ll notice a picture of a mototaxi, these are taxis where a frame was built around a motorcycle and can reasonably seat 3 adults. It is the main form of transportation anywhere outside of a large city like Cusco. They lack suspension of any kind and can be a teeth/bone chattering ride on dirt roads - but it beats walking during the rain showers!

We had a chance to explore salt mines that have been

used since Incan times and also visited famous concentric terraces in Moray thought to have been used as an agricultural lab by the Incans as these bowls have very different microclimates depending on the terrace level.

On Sun the 21st we got to enjoy the company of my safely arrived sister and niece. We look forward to the 4 day Machu Pichu trek starting on Wed. Until then, we are in Cusco sampling mercados, museums, incan ruins and, perhaps, a national specialty - guinea pig (forgive us Kevin

and Andrew!).

Take Care and Be Well,

We Are!

Jungle Heat

A thin film of sweat covers our bodies constantly. Our clothes soaked, the air is thick with odors unknown, sweet and not so sweet. The sounds of the jungle surround us like a tropical orchestra.

Welcome to the Amazon Jungle.

We departed the heights of Cusco for Puerto Muldonado arriving in the sultry tropical heat in, yup, midday. The kids began to wilt immediately, so after a quick Peru style Chinese dinner, we retired to our thankfully airconditioned room in the Hostal Cabana Quinta. We explored this town of 30,000 over the next 3 days tasting exotic jungle fruits, visiting the central market, and taking a tour of a rather large and quite fascinating butterfly research project. We then arranged a 4 day 3 night eco tour at the Posada Amazonas Lodge. No sooner had we arrived and unpacked than our very knowledgeable and affable native guide, Gilbert, took us on a night walk thru the jungle.

The more we saw the more we became concerned about what we could NOT see beyond our seemingly inadequate flashlights. But Gilbert proved himself time and again that our safety was his first concern. And so began an adventure that spanned army ants, huge snails, frogs galore, tarantulas (did you know there are purple tarantulas?), monkeys in the trees outside our lodge room, 3 ft lizards, macaws and lots of other birds, giant otters, 400 yr old Kapo trees larger in circumference than the biggest sequoia, an unexpected 45 minute night boat ride in a traditional canoe along the glass-like Tambopata River, a visit with a local Shaman and botanical medicine garden tour, great food and lovely company that, once again, did not include any Americans.

Now we find ourselves back in the big city of Cusco with all it´s attendant perks getting ready to descend into the Sacred Valley tomorrow and another week of language school.

All is well with us and our health. We miss you all.

Love,

The Varnes-Epstein Clan

First Week in Cusco, Peru

Buenos Dias todos nuestras amigos y familia,

OK, for all you who know your Spanish very well, please no correction.
An awesome Thanksgiving in Lombard and then a long 2 day drive to Miami officially started our 2 1/2 month adventure in Peru, Argentina and Chile. We parked our car and non essentials with Craig´s very wonderful DEA buddy Kevin and jumped on a midnight flight to Lima, Peru. Lots of gadgets at each seat to engage the kids but sleep deprivation prevailed and they settled in for the 6 hour flight. A 4 hour layover in Lima found us all sprawled on airport seats before boarding for our final destination - Cusco, Peru-the heart of the Incan Empire. Arriving in the heat of the Peruvian summer and at 11,000 ft we were deposited at our host family´s home in time for food and bed. Our Peruvian grandmother/host, Carola, tucked us in clucking like a mother hen the whole time. We managed to get our bodies up the next morning despite the usual effects of high altitude -fatigue, headache, nausea and little appetite. Fortunately, these symptoms eased off over a few days though we pined for the acclimatization we had experienced on the John Muir Trail a few yrs back. Finding our way thru Cusco (pop 300,000) from host home to school involves a 15 minute taxi ride thru winding, narrow, ancient alleyways and boulevards where the only rule seems to be not to hit a pedestrian or another car and whoever can nose in first has the right of way. My advice, just don´t look.

Classes went well but it´s been an intense period of adjustment and trying to learn the complexities of Spanish with brain fatigue is a rather tall order.

We ended our week in Cusco today by seeing some of the ruins surrounding the city on horseback. One really can´t convey the enormity of the advanced architectural capabilities of the Incans in writing and the attached pictures will help only a little.

Tomorrow we fly to Puerto Maldonado and experience the summer heat in the Amazon river basin. Hopefully, we´ll get a look at the giant otters, macaws and clay licks, pirahna and other, mostly undisturbed, wildlife. Back for more school in a different, more rural locale - Taray located in the Sacred Valley region and heart of the indigenous folks.

We miss you! Adios!